In the kitchen with Henny: Meatless meals for the Nine Days that go beyond pasta and cheese

When the month of Av begins, we are taught to decrease our joy. This is the month in which both of our holy Temples were destroyed, and the month associated with other tragedies in Jewish history, beginning with the sin of the spies who spoke negatively about the Land of Israel, the very land we are now so privileged to walk on.

These days are a time to reflect on what we have lost, to feel the pain of the destruction, and to mourn what is still missing from our lives as a people.

For many people, not eating meat for nine days is no big deal. My family and I are not those people.

I want the Messiah to come for many reasons, but let me tell you, there is some very real crying and mourning in our home when the Nine Days arrive.

I have also heard the same panic from friends and clients who feel overwhelmed by the question of what to serve when dairy and gluten are limited. And really, how much fish can one family eat before everyone starts growing gills?

That is why I decided to focus this article on meatless meals that contain little or no dairy, with dairy-free substitutions whenever possible, as well as on recipes that are gluten-free or can be easily adapted. Apparently, there are quite a few of us out there trying to solve the same dinner dilemma.

Please do not misunderstand me. The pain of our exile is very real, especially for those of us living here in Israel, where the past few years have brought war, loss, fear, and heartbreak directly into our homes and communities. Refraining from meat for nine days is a very small inconvenience compared with the loss and brokenness our people have experienced.

But our families still need to be fed each day. So while we remember why these days are different, we can also find simple, satisfying ways to put dinner on the table.

Did I mention that, besides being gluten-free, I also cannot eat yeast?

So I spent some time experimenting with different techniques and ingredients to create a gluten-free, yeast-free roll that actually looks and tastes like a real dinner roll, with a similar texture, too.

Yields 6 medium or 8 small rolls.

2 cups gluten-free flour blend with xanthan gum

(If your gluten-free flour blend does not contain xanthan gum, add 1/8 teaspoon xanthan gum.)

1 Tbsp. aluminum-free baking powder

¼ tsp. baking soda

½ tsp. salt

1 Tbsp. sugar

130 gr. plain Greek yogurt, about ½ cup

2/3 cup seltzer

2-3 Tbsp. softened butter, divided

Extra gluten-free flour, for shaping

Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F.

In a large bowl, combine the gluten-free flour, xanthan gum if needed, baking powder, baking soda, salt, and sugar.

Add the Greek yogurt and seltzer. Mix with an electric mixer on medium speed for about 3 minutes, until well combined. The dough will be soft and slightly gummy.

Lightly flour a work surface and turn out the dough. Divide it into 6 pieces for larger rolls or 8 pieces for smaller rolls.

Generously butter 6 or 8 sections of a muffin tin.

Using lightly floured hands, shape each piece of dough into a ball and place it into the prepared muffin tin. Brush the tops with any remaining softened butter.

Bake for 30-35 minutes, until the rolls are puffed and golden brown.

Allow them to cool slightly before carefully removing them from the pan. Serve warm.

It is simple, colorful, and refreshing.

Yields 4 servings.

6 cups cubed watermelon

3 cucumbers, diced

200 gr. feta cheese, crumbled or cubed

1 small red onion, very thinly sliced

½ cup fresh mint leaves, roughly chopped

½ cup toasted almonds or pistachios

Dressing:

2 Tbsp. olive oil

2 Tbsp. fresh lime or lemon juice

1 Tbsp. silan or honey

¼ tsp. black pepper

Pinch of salt, if needed

Place the watermelon, cucumbers, red onion, and mint in a large serving bowl.

In a small bowl, whisk together the olive oil, lime or lemon juice, silan, and black pepper.

Pour the dressing over the salad and toss gently.

Add the feta and toasted nuts just before serving and toss very lightly so the watermelon does not break apart.

Taste before adding salt, since the feta may already be salty.

Serve immediately or keep chilled until ready to serve.

Even though I am a real chicken and meat eater, I also happen to love fish: salmon, fried fish, grilled fish, and, of course, a nice cold tuna salad.

I have even been caught eating tuna straight from the can when I need some protein and do not have the energy to make anything else.

But since I am not a cat, and I do actually enjoy cooking, I decided tuna patties were the way to go. They are dairy-free, and you can easily use gluten-free breadcrumbs if needed. They also feel a little more substantial than the usual tuna-and-mayonnaise.

These can be made in advance and reheated, or enjoyed cold, making them a practical lunch or dinner option during the Nine Days.

Yields 4 patties.

200 gr. tuna, about 2 cans, drained well

2 eggs

1/3 cup breadcrumbs or panko crumbs

1 small onion or shallot, finely diced

1 Tbsp. mayonnaise

Fresh dill and parsley, chopped

¼ tsp. ground black pepper

½ tsp. salt

½ tsp. paprika

2 Tbsp. avocado oil, for frying

Place the tuna, eggs, breadcrumbs, onion or shallot, mayonnaise, dill, parsley, black pepper, salt, and paprika in a bowl. Mix until well combined.

Divide the mixture into 4 equal portions and shape each one into a patty.

Heat the avocado oil in a skillet over medium heat. Cook the patties for 4-5 minutes on each side, until golden brown and heated through.

Transfer the patties to a plate lined with paper towels to absorb any excess oil. Serve warm or cold.

For me, when I think of dairy desserts, besides ice cream, I think of cinnamon buns with real cream cheese frosting. Often people use parve cream cheese because, let’s face it, we usually want parve desserts. But since we are firmly in our no-meat zone, I figured this was the perfect time to bring on the cinnamon buns.

And to be completely honest, selfish as it may sound, I was not inspired to prepare and photograph a dessert that I wished I could eat but could not. So if you are like me and want to have your cinnamon bun and eat it too, try these delicious gluten-free, yeast-free pull-apart cinnamon buns.

The cream cheese frosting can also be made with nondairy cream cheese and plant-based butter, so everyone can enjoy them.

Yields one 9”x13” pan.

4 cups gluten-free flour containing xanthan gum

(If your gluten-free flour does not contain xanthan gum, add ½ tsp. xanthan gum.)

3 Tbsp. aluminum-free baking powder

1 tsp. baking soda

1 tsp. salt

2 Tbsp. sugar

300 gr. cold butter, cut into small pieces

2 large eggs, cold

1½ cups cold buttermilk

Filling:

1/3 cup butter, melted

1 cup packed light brown sugar

2 Tbsp. ground cinnamon

Cream cheese frosting:

110 gr. cream cheese, softened (half cup)

50 gr. butter, softened (¼ cup)

2 cups powdered sugar

1 tsp. vanilla extract

In the bowl of an electric mixer, combine the gluten-free flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, and sugar. Add the cold butter cubes and mix on the lowest speed for 2 minutes. The butter should begin to break down into the flour, but small pieces should still remain.

Meanwhile, whisk the eggs and buttermilk together in a separate bowl. If you do not have buttermilk, add 1 Tbsp. white vinegar to regular milk and let it stand for 10 minutes before using.

Add the egg and buttermilk mixture to the flour mixture. Mix on medium speed for about 3 minutes, until the dough is well combined and comes together.

Press the dough down gently with your hands, cover the bowl with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes. The dough can remain refrigerated for up to two days.

After the dough has chilled, preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F. Generously butter a 23 x 33-cm. (9 x 13-inch) baking pan.

To prepare the filling, combine the brown sugar and cinnamon in a bowl and set aside.

Turn the chilled dough onto a well-floured work surface and knead it very briefly, just until it holds together. Roll the dough into a large rectangle approximately 45 x 50 cm. or 18 x 20 inches. The dough should be about a quarter of an inch thick.

Brush the melted butter evenly over the dough, spreading it all the way to the edges. Sprinkle the cinnamon-sugar mixture evenly over the butter and gently press it into the dough.

Beginning at one long side, carefully roll the dough into a log. Pinch the seam gently to seal it. Using a sharp knife or bench scraper, cut the log into 15 equal pieces.

Arrange the buns cut-side up in the prepared baking pan. Bake for 25-30 minutes, until the buns are risen and golden brown. Check the buns in the center of the pan to make sure the dough is fully baked.

Allow the buns to cool for 10-15 minutes while you prepare the frosting.

To make the frosting, beat the softened cream cheese and butter together until smooth and creamy. Gradually add the powdered sugar and continue beating until fully combined. Add the vanilla extract and mix until smooth.

Spread the frosting over the slightly warm cinnamon buns and serve them warm.

For a dairy-free version, use plant-based butter, dairy-free buttermilk, and nondairy cream cheese.

During the Nine Days, we have certain restrictions: no meat, swimming, live music, or celebrations. But while it is important to mourn the loss of our Temple, we should not allow that mourning to pull us into despair.

My husband gave a shiur this past Shabbat about the heaviness of these days and the hope we need to carry alongside it.

Mourning something we believe can never be restored can leave us feeling hopeless. But when we mourn something we believe we can get back, it changes the way we mourn. It gives us hope and encourages us to look inward, become better, and reach out to every Jew, regardless of religious or political differences.

While we may not be able to control another person’s behavior, we can choose how we respond. Even when we disagree, we can look beyond those differences and respect one another’s perspectives. Our nation is built on the understanding that, despite our varied beliefs, we are one people with one heart.

As we mourn the fragmentation caused by baseless hatred, we can begin rebuilding through unconditional love and unity. When we envision our Temple standing once again, right here in our own backyard, we can also envision a nation in which every Jew feels connected to the next.

I have great hope that by the time you read this, there will be no need for meatless meals or a fast the following week. But you can always save these recipes for another time when you are looking for meat-free dishes, including dairy-free and gluten-free options, to help feed your family.